Bangalore- Dhanushkodi on two wheels! :)

It all started as a very random plan to celebrate new year's evening. For the sheer lack of better alternatives to kick in the new year with a blast, I and a group of friends got together and started looking up for places to ride to; and in no time, a plan to ride to Dhanushkodi was up.

Here are some minor details of the plan:
Route: Bangalore>>Salem>>Dindigul>>Madurai>>Rameshwaram>>Dhanushkodi
Distance: 620 Km
Number of riders: 3 Riders, 1 Pillion
Bikes: 3 RE Thunderbird
Trip Duration: 3 days (31st December, 2015 - 2nd January, 2016)

The Route

My riding gear was ready and the bike serviced a day before, the 30th. We wanted to call it an early night for the big ride ahead. Invariably, sleep gave me a miss, just like before any other ride. Adrenaline plays it's part well, this time too without fail. So, On a bright Thursday morning, we all took a day off work and started from Bangalore on 31st December at 7:00 AM to our destination. We  were four riders on three bikes when we started from Bangalore and were joined by two of our friends already on a tour; shortly before Rameshwaram. The ride in itself was very picturesque and enjoyable. The south Indian cuisine absolutely did not fail to surprise us and we came across the tastiest Dosas on the way. The year was bidding goodbye in the best possible way after all. We took various tea/food/stretch stops on the way as it was turning out to be a really hot day. We rode till 11.00 PM and were finally close to Rameshwaram.

We reached our hotels in Rameshwaram close to midnight and it was time for some much deserved NY celebration with friends I had not caught up with for years.

The next morning, we started the much awaited ride from Rameshwaram to Dhanushkodi town. It was roughly 15-20 km of a distance. It was a wonderful ride along the coast with the wind showering a lot of sand on our faces. :) Private bikes and cars are only allowed up until Dhanushkodi town's check post. Beyond this point, only Government of India authorized specially modified Jeep (4x4 drive) is allowed to witness the ruins of the once mighty town along the beach side. The tour timings are 7 AM through 6 PM. Alternatively, people are allowed to walk from the check post to the town.

The Jeep that ferries (Rather Rocks) people to Dhanushkodi

So, we were all set sitting inside the vehicles that were supposed to ferry us to Dhanushkodi town from the check post. It started well with a slightly off road ride until we saw a dead end to land mass and just water beyond that. A few of my friends started scaring me off saying the bus will now go into the water. They had absolutely no idea that their joke was soon going to be true. :) There was deep blue sea on either sides of the Jeep. It was probably the most adventurous and scariest Jeep ride of my entire life so far. The ride lasted 30 minutes. The Jeep dropped all passengers at the start of the village and the sight of a cyclone ruined town was clear from there on.

Ruins of  the cyclone hit town 

We interacted with the locals and they were kind enough to walk us through the story of the cyclone that hit the town in 1964. Since this place does not observe very high footfall, the ruins have been preserved in the same condition. Dhanushkodi is also known as the ghost town that houses many myths related to the cyclone. It is located on the southern most tip of Pamban Island and is one of the southern tip of the country. It is 28 Km away from Sri Lanka and widely known for its mythological importance. Indian mythology states that it was here that Lord Rama built a bridge (known as Ramasetu/Adam's bridge) using floating stones which then helped him reach Sri Lanka to rescue Sita from Ravana.  

The locals claim that the cyclone of 1964 ravaged the once flourishing town of Dhanushkodi to an extent that it still remains hostile for civilization to set base in. We were also told that on the day of the cyclone, a daily passenger train, called boat mail (carrying over a 100 passengers) was carried away by the cyclone as it approached Dhanushkodi town. The structures could easily be recognized. The city's church with a broken cross and a pedestal still intact tells it's own story of how established the town was. The city back then had all regular amenities like a post office, school and railway station, ruins of all of which are still present here.

The walk to the end of land mass is very tough as it requires walking on sand for long 4-5 km, but it was every bit worth it. There was Indian ocean on one side of the walk and bay of Bengal on the other- both clearly in sight. There is a stark difference between the two sides. Indian Ocean is calm and clear blue while Bay of Bengal was roaring with green waters. Letting the sight sink in, we continued to walk and in about 2 hours, we reached the tip of Dhanushkodi. This place also marks the amalgamation of Indian Ocean and Bay of Bengal. Standing at that point, surrounded by the beach, it felt so pristine and isolated that I wished I did not have to return to civilization at all. we were being coerced by our Jeep driver who came following us to the tip to do so, but that failed too. we spent good five hours walking up and down the sandy terrain and soaking in the view.  

         

While returning back, we noticed that the only population that actually lives in Dhanushkodi are fishermen who make a living by fishing and selling shells and jewelry made out of them. It was then time to get into the bumpy ride of the Jeep again to go back to the check post with the most serene place I had experienced in a long time. As we headed back towards the Jeep parking, we couldn't locate the Jeep that got us there. We asked another driver and he informed us that our Jeep had left as they wait for passengers only for 45 minutes and we were a good 4 hours late, and there wasn't place to fit in 6 people in any other Jeep. It was dark, there was just one last Jeep parked in the lot. It was fully stuffed with people already with not even breathing air inside. We tried negotiating our way with the driver; a few of my friends asked him for space on the luggage carriage above the Jeep. Pained by our constant questioning, he said 'You can sit there if you are willing to, but make it real quick'. We were short on time as the driver had already started to rev up the engine of the Jeep. Before we were all done processing the thought, we already found ourselves going up the ladder behind the Jeep, onto the carriage, one by one. What I referred to as 'a bumpy ride' had just turned into my worst nightmare. The jeep entered the sea, we were all out of balance. I looked down and could only see the jeep almost floating in the sea! I quickly grasped one of the handles, and it made a sound- one that indicates that it may fall off any moment. 'I do not know how to swim.' I tell my friend. 'Me neither, chill', he replies. I realized that being in bad situations with someone else definitely helps. Thankfully, our worst fears did not come true. We all got down that Jeep (Rather carriage) safely. Looking back, I do not think I would have ever done something like this willingly and in retrospect, it does seem like an adventure! :)        

Pamban Bridge

We also visited Rameshwaram and Madurai temples on the way back to Bangalore before concluding the most fantastic ride in a long time. Riding on Pamban bridge was an experience in itself. Just by looking at it, one can figure out that it is one of riskiest rail bridges built in the county and is a marvel to look at.
With many more rides to go, we said goodbye to each other and left with a reminiscence of the wonder that the place truly was. :)